Chanel La Montre Monsieur de Chanel

In 1998, Chanel took a minority stake in Bell & Ross, which it has since increased to a majority. The siblings who own Chanel, Alain and Gerard Wertheimer, also acquired a stake in F.P. Journe via their family office, New York-based Mousse Partners. But the key ingredient of the Monsieur de Chanel and its CALIBRE 1 was Chanel’s 2011 investment in Romain Gauthier. Though better known for his eponymous watches like the Insight, Mr. Gauthier makes well under a hundred watches a year under his own name. A good part of his business, which has almost two dozen employees, is producing movement components for other brands. One of those clients is Chanel; Mr. Gauthier’s workshop is responsible for manufacturing and finishing the crucial bits of the Calibre 1, namely the “wheels, shafts, pinions, drums, barrel covers, and balances, along with other turning parts,” according to Chanel.

The CALIBRE 1 is a mechanical masterpiece characterized by two circular skeletonized bridges, showcasing the strong design elements of the House of Chanel. Its black architectural movement in ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) predominantly features matte and glossy black tones. The trim elegantly accentuates the curves of its base plate and bridges, while several bespoke components pay homage to the octagonal shape of Place Vendôme.

Chanel has chosen the lion, a symbol of strength and power and its most masculine emblem, to be the hallmark of the MONSIEUR watch, adorning its buckle and crown. This lion emblem also signifies all of the brand’s in-house haute horlogerie movements.

The first remarkable feature of this watch is the Instant Jumping Hour, which necessitates precise control of micro-shocks and energy consumption associated with the aluminum hour disc’s movement. With two barrels arranged in series, the MONSIEUR de CHANEL watch boasts a three-day power reserve. The second horological achievement is the retrograde minute function, displayed over 240 degrees on the dial, seamlessly blending both aesthetics and technical performance. The bidirectional corrector for the retrograde minute enables easy adjustment of the watch and embodies a fundamental aspect of Chanel’s fine watchmaking philosophy.